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Showing posts from January, 2015

Being Bedouin

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Qatari nationals make up around 12% of the 2.3 million  population of Qatar, at around only 278,000. Much of the population are or originate from Bedouin tribes.   The term Bedouin translates to 'desert dweller' and in Qatar they remained living in desert dwellings until around 50 years ago when they started to move into urban dwellings in what is now Doha city and vicinity. There are few if any Bedouin who live in the desert now, but families continue to practice traditions, usually on weekends, spending time in desert camps, sitting around a fire, cooking traditional dishes and sleeping under the stars.   I have the incredible fortune to have Bedouin friends from both Yemen and Qatar and learning about their culture and traditions has been a fascinating discovery.  I was lucky enough to spend some time with them in the desert one recent weekend when I was invited along to their private camp by the sea in the very far North of Qatar, 90 minutes drive from Doha. Sp

The winter colours of the souq

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The beginning of another year in Qatar and a cool (sometimes cold!) breeze descends on the souq.  I love this time of year. .... With the change in temperature so a change of colours......white thobes and ghutras turn to blue, brown, black, even red (as sported by my friend Nasser).  Ladies getting into different colour abayas and hijabs like the two ladies who passed by my table tonight dressed in all shades of pink!  And on National Day 18 December, the colours of the Qatari flag are worn in many ways to celebrate the day in 1878 when Sheikh Jassem became Qatar's ruler and unified the tribes of the country towards beaming a nation state.  The atmosphere is beautiful for sitting out in the evening with shisha, coffee, heavenly Arabian mint tea and the gorgeously refreshing lemon mint juice. This year has only seen one or two days of rain so far, one of which I sat outside my favourite cafe and refused to budge even though I was getting quite soaked!  But li